How to sculpt with super sculpey Arashizragore / 22.02.202122.02.2021 My Super Sculpey Trick for Polymer Clay Artists Mar 14, · A video looking at sculpting a bust from super sculpey. In future videos I'll also be making a mold and running off casts of lovedatme.com available here http. To create an extremely smooth surface on your sculpt, use isopropyl alcohol. 90% solution is best, but some people feel that they have more control with the 70%. You can also use baby wipes if you need just a bit of abrasion to remove rough areas. Other polymer clays . Here I will go through the steps I use for the final details of a sculpture and the tools I use to do so. There are a few varieties of Sculpey- the "regular" kind, which is white the beige "Super" Sculpey which is slightly harder in feel and can get more detail. There is also a grey "Firm" Sculpey which is quite hard. The sculpture has an aluminum wire armature, and the bulk of the horse's body is made with layers of aluminum foil. This keeps both the weight of the piece down and it makes the Sculpey thin enough to cure evenly in a shorter amount of time. Be sure to pack the aluminum foil firmly to avoid air pockets. Here are a few of my favorite tools. Mouse over photos to see details. When starting a sculpture, it is important to plan ahead so that you can build a sturdy base for your piece. Here I have sketched my idea, and used the sketch to assemble the armature. The wire for the neck was twisted together to add strength, as horses' necks are quite large. Note: It is important to keep your proportions correct when building an armature. Using the head of the subject as your unit of measurement, measure repeatedly using calipers shown in the upper right of the photo to make sure you have built the armature with the correct proportions. There are many resources online and in art books to determine these proportions. I what to do with chicken giblets and neck here that my horse ended up being a little short in body length, but overall I tried to keep it realistic. For me, this armature is unique- usually my armatures for human figures are much simpler and have no wood or extra parts, how to sculpt with super sculpey aluminum wire. If you are determined to use a larger piece of wood, you can pre-bake the wood to test if it expands or cracks. I have also had wood leach sap if it is fresh! Smoky oven parties are no fun! After you have a sturdy armature built, use Aluminum Foil to bulk out your sculpture and get the rough shape of the figure started. This is a great material for this because it is inexpensive, lightweight, and won't be altered by the heat of the oven. I use regular old aluminum foil from the grocery store, I tear off sheets and fold them a few times into a strip about 1. I pack the foil as tightly as I can, so that it doesn't move or depress when I start putting clay on. You can even smash the foil down with a hammer or other sturdy tool if it won't stay put. I take thinner strips of how to sculpt with super sculpey and wrap them tightly around armature wire of the limbs, or if the limb will be very thin, you can also wrap finer wire I use 24 gauge floral wire around the base wire. This helps the clay grip to the wire. After you have a good base built up with the foil, it's time to start adding your clay! I like to warm up the clay a bit with how to sculpt with super sculpey hands, smashing it around in my fingers. Super Sculpey comes in bricks, one pound each, and these bricks are made up of strips. I only ever use one strip or less at a time, otherwise the clay can be hard to maneuver- it's easier to make sure it is really blended together if you use smaller pieces. In the photo, you can see I have roughly sketched in the major muscular forms of the horse. These will get refined using the next steps. Here I have rounded out, smoothed, and baked the main forms of the how to sculpt with super sculpey. This allows for more delicate detail on the smaller parts of the body. Also, it allows you to make small changes to the more expressive parts of the figure hands especially, or in this case, hooves after the larger parts are locked down. This way, the limbs can be moved out of the way while sculpting the body. Also I find I often mark up or ding the extremities with my tools, so by breaking it up into two steps, it's easier to keep track of smoothing out any imperfections. Baking the torso first gives you a hard base to build up the detail onto. Sculpey is great for this- you can blend uncured clay onto baked clay and it will how to change lenses in oakley gascan well once baked again. In this step, I am forming the major muscle shapes with my fingers. I try to make sure that the clay is well blended, with no air pockets. If you get an air pocket, you can puncture it with a knife or tool, and smooth it out. One of the first tools I use when defining the muscles is this wider spoon-like tool. It is great for blending pieces of clay together, and can be used to compress spots. Note : I am constantly switching back and forth between tools, so these "Steps" are really in a very basic order- I will often go back to step one, then 4, drawing, then use my rake tool, re-drawing, then back to scoops, etc. It is a mix-and-match process of whittling down detail to a finished form. This step is more of a constant technique- drawing the separations between muscles, drawing where body markers on a human, this would be things like the navel, pelvic bone, suprasternal notch, etc are, and drawing just to remind yourself of the directions or gesture of the sculpture. It is important to continue to draw on your figure so these details and major markers do not get lost. I use a pointed dental tool or an X-Acto knife to draw on my pieces. Details get finer and finer as the sculpture gets more finished. Here are two examples of how I use smaller tools to scoop out and compress different parts of the figure. Horses have a great deal of beautiful information in their feet and legs- muscles, tendons, etc- and you need appropriately what is the human capital tools to get the amount of detail needed. The rake tool is very important for getting forms to become rounded and smooth. You want to have how to create a contact database in access 2010 variety of sizes of rake, and always start with the largest and work down to the finer ones. The rake cuts the imperfections down in your sculpture. Use it like you crosshatch in a drawing- alternate directions across the form, so that you aren't just going up and down a shape, but over across it, so it rounds out more overall. You want to use a light touch with a rake, as it can gouge into your clay and leave deep marks. You want to use many light marks over and over to create the changes you want, not deep marks you can't go back from. Note: This is a tool I made myself using brass stock, a hacksaw blade, and a propane torch to bend the saw blade - then sand down the blade points so they are almost flat. Here is a good tutorial on how to do so, fairly similar but a bit more complicated than how I've made them, they also make them using piano wire:. Here I how to sculpt with super sculpey using a smaller rake tool to refine and even out the forms of the horse's legs. Remember to crosshatch across the form. You want it to be a round shape- muscles are bundles of threads, not square or flat shapes. Note: Notice the little what is a master trust bits of clay formed with the rake? This is because this rake needs to be sanded a bit more- the points of the blades are too sharp, rather than flattened, and so it pulls up and deposits little bits of clay. This can be avoided by sanding the tool more! Now that you're satisfied with the shapes you've sculpted, it's time to clean up all those little marks and smooth everything out. All of these, as you may notice, are rather unpleasant to use on a regular basis, not to mention can be fairly toxic and you should wear gloves when using them. So, while looking for alternatives, somewhere in the vast expanse of the internet What is an unconfirmed diagnosis how to sculpt with super sculpey upon a suggestion to use baby oil on your Super Sculpey, and it works rather well. And, since it's intended to be used on babies, I feel much happier handling it. I pour a very small amount of baby oil just a few drops into a small plastic cup and how to sculpt with super sculpey a sturdy old brush this particular one I've cut the bristles down to a flat, wide edge in and, in a similar crosshatching manner to the what the meaning of health tools, smooth out the marks your forms. Use the baby oil sparingly - if you get too how to sculpt with super sculpey with it, it can effectively wipe out all the detail work you've done. It works by softening the clay you can also add a drop or two to hard clay to soften it intentionally but if there gets to be too much in the clay or on the surface, how to sculpt with super sculpey can become a mucky, sticky mess. Err on the side of less, and depend more on the brush strokes to even things out. I also like to tap my fingers over the surface at the very end, also in an overlapping pattern, to blend out the brush strokes. Here are some shots of the final unpainted product- and the leg detail just before it's given one more pass with the brush and baby oil. After the final baking cure, I sand the piece with fine sandpaper start with grit, move up gradually to or and then wear gloves! I use the Acetone very sparingly, but it takes out the finest scratches and makes the piece very smooth. Best to be done outside or in a well-ventilated area! It's nasty stuff! You learn more about it here:. Question 2 months ago on Introduction. Your sculptures are beautiful! I'm new at working with sculpey III. Do I cover my sculpture with plastic wrap when I'm not working on it and it hasn't yet been baked? Question 1 year ago on Step Hi I just adore your work and your tutorial on the horse is the best I've come across yet. Thanks so much. I've a question about baking. I made a very detailed low relief of Spanish horse and rider, have spent over a year on it and am going to have it bronzed. It's finished and now needs baking. It's FAR too thick at the tummy, I'm so silly, I didn't know when I started it that it would get good enough to continue with and by then too much detail was completed and is undoable! So I'm looking for 2 pieces of advice please regarding baking : 1. The thickest part is 4 and a half cm thick at the riders thigh, the thinnest part - the rim of the hat it 1 mm thick and extends almost 1 cm from the head ie that's the rim. The entire low relief measures 22 cm x 22 cm. Also to support a back leg which is connected to the base at the hind quarters and hoof but has an unsupported space around the hock middle of his back leg joint and there's an unsupported space where the riders' thin arm is joined to the sculpture at shoulder and hand only. These 3 parts have no armature. Indeed there's no armature at all and no silver foil used to bulk up. It's pure super sculpy. How To Use Original Super Sculpey It has a ceramic like feel and allows for extremely detailed sculpting. Super Sculpey® features fine tooling and detailing characteristics, and does not “fill in” after tooling. Stays soft until baked – Does not air dry. Remains soft until it is baked in your home lovedatme.com: Super Sculpey® Beige. This sculpture is made with Super Sculpey, which is a polymer clay that can be cured in the oven by baking at ° F. There are a few varieties of Sculpey- the "regular" kind, (which is white) the beige "Super" Sculpey which is slightly harder in feel and can get more detail. There is also a grey "Firm" Sculpey which is quite hard. Bake Super Sculpey® at degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes per 1/4 inch of thickness. Once your project has cooled completely, you can glaze Super Sculpey® with Sculpey® Glaze or paint with acrylics. Store Super Sculpey® away from direct sunlight in a cool, dry area. If stored properly, this polymer clay will keep almost indefinitely. Baking Directions for Super Sculpey. Time in Oven? It is better to add successive layers rather than to cook thick ones. You'll avoid cracking. If your piece does crack you can fill them in with more material and rebake. What temperature? Number of Colors: 1 and it's beige. Package Sizes: 1 pound, 8 pounds and 24 pound bulk pack. How Expensive Is It? Usually about 60 cents an ounce in the smaller sizes. But check here for current prices. What's Good: This clay's a top choice for professional model makers and sculptors because it holds fine details incredibly well. Its sometimes used to create miniature set designs for movies, and product development mockups. It is very hard, but not brittle after its oven cured. That makes it work well for armatures or doll 'bones'. The semi-transparent, matte finish after baking is ideal for dolls and figures. It can be drilled, sanded or carved after baking. Want more colors? Add them! Before baking, apply oil paint, pastel chalk mediums or mica powders. Use acrylic paints or glaze to add color and finish after curing. To create an extremely smooth surface on your sculpt , use isopropyl alcohol. You can also use baby wipes if you need just a bit of abrasion to remove rough areas. Other polymer clays often used for sculpting are: Super Sculpey Firm, Premo! What's Not So Great: There's only one color, beige. And this clay is too soft for caning. Lighter colored crescent 'moonies' or plaquing is sometimes visible after baking. Keeping Super-Sculpey away from moisture or sweaty hands seems to help a bit. Fixing Cracks - Thick layers of Super Sculpey will almost always crack. Try to keep the thickness of the layers under a quarter of an inch. If you do get splitting, these areas can be covered over and rebaked. Or you can fill the gap with more clay and use an embossing tool to just cure that spot. Uncured Super Sculpey and Premo has a slight shine. Move the heat gun over the filled in area, keeping it about 2 inches from the surface. Keep the heat moving, don't stay in one spot. When the sheen disappears the clay is cured. Stop or move on to the next area. I'm Nancy Ulrich, and I'm a Polymer addict. I live in San Diego with my husband Bob. And I've never eaten anything rolled from my pasta machine All Rights Reserved. Created by me, Nancy Ulrich. I and my husband, Bob Ulrich, are also participants in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also accepts advertising and other forms of compensation. Such compensation does not influence the information in this site. If I don't think it has value to my readers you won't find it here. Third party trademarks, brands and images are the property of their respective owners. And since I hate spam this site will always respect your privacy. 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